We are sitting on the large plaza in front of this 16 C building , an old Convent. We are staying in this beautiful building tonight. Drinking our riojas, and watching. Over the street is a playground with a gigantic castle. It’s gradually filling up as people wake from siestas and begin the evening wanderings and meetings before the late dinner. Lots of parents and pushers strolling by, young girls off to meet friends or home from school, old men strolling slowly by, assorted dogs on leads being taken for their daily walk, groups of older women laughing .

The group of women on our right are as happy as, drinking wine like us and the mum or grand mum in the wheelchair cheerfully joining in the quips and observations of neighbours walking past.

It’s all happening . Buses go by regularly. Commuting with nearby Bilbao.

There’s a sprinkle of rain after the fairly warm day and the umbrella man comes by cheerfully with the usual selling umbrellas spiel. The women laugh with him, but he doesn’t sell his umbrellas . They have moved like us into the shelter of the eaves.

The traffic in front increases as silence descends, the drizzle has become rain and we are the only people left on the plaza. Apart from the camarero drawing on his cigarette while checking his phone.