A pause after the mountain path up to the mountain path past Bonar in Northern Spain. The alternative route to La Robla, the next small town on this Camino Olvidado.

I mean PAUSE as in stay here in Bonar another night. Yesterday was a wonderful day on a Camino with which I have sometimes struggled these past two weeks.

Today was hard too but I did it! Got to the summit of one of the mountains and down again. Upwards via a steep 2 hour climb over loose stones,gravel, a drop over a river (I didn’t look down as my balance is not that good) and narrow slippery sections of path.

Reach the top and vistas stretch out all around this gasping body: purple mountain tops mingle with their shorter more muted brothers or sisters. The white craggy rock frontages are etched deeply by weather and streaked spasmodically with a pale yellow chalky pattern. From one vantage point I can see a minuscule village huddled in the valley. Further around there are several winding paths leading away to other mountain tops.

It is autumn here but so much water and all is green, remnants of yellow flowering bushes and scraggly mulberries hanging in with splashes of colour. The tiny purple daisy flowers that have cheered me on hot days just squeezing their petals through the ground are numerous here where the earth is soft.

. …….a harder, very taxing slide/creep/stumble ascent back down to the world left behind for a while.

To downslide.

Was the cake worth the candle ?

I’m still considering.

Last night I thought about backtracking. Train or bus to those towns we’ve enjoyed but passed through in the blink of an eye. The peregrina life is up with the alarm, packed the night before, coffee if we’re lucky, and hit the road. Cover the kilometres as best one can while hoping for a coffee stop or just a cold water during the day and the arrival at destination. Then find your hostal ( on this route not many). Then it’s the ritual of feet up, shower, washing clothes in sink, tend to feet, a short siesta and out to find food and a drink. Depending on the time, day or town this can be simple, or require a little exploring.

But I’m not complaining, just explaining. This morning the idea of staying here another day and just exploring the town seems as attractive as continuing. But why does the idea seem strange?

Simple really. It’s just that I’ve been stuck in the Camino mould for the last 10 years or so, since I walked that first Camino, the Frances. I’ve gone on walking in Spain because I love exploring this country by walking. I love Spain, it’s people and culture and it’s language. Caminos are a wonderful window into this life.

I have clung on to the idea that the real peregrina walks each step with her pack, learning about herself and life as she goes. A serious business. I guess a little bit of the belief that suffering is good for the soul. A peregrina I met up with again today reminded me that God has a sense of humour. My Camino doesn’t have to be an endurance race and I don’t have to push myself up each mountain, There are vistas down here which I haven’t looked at, really looked at. There are sweeping vistas at ground level and smaller, less obvious views. I haven’t always looked at the light which touches “causas”/ things as I pass with my eyes directly ahead or watching my feet.

So today is about light, noticing light snd recognising that light which exists everywhere.

Spirits lifted we unpacked, strolled out to a late coffee and replanned our Camino. Actually this town of Bonar looks different this crisp clear morning and well worth enjoying. So we walked out along the river and part of the way to the next village , without our packs. I walked along curious, and gently placing one taped up foot in front of the other.

Along the river the light sparkles on the water

.

Up a slight rise at the end of the path, but I’m not following the yellow ‘flechas’ today and I’m staying on my feet. We turn back to the bridge and return to Bonar

So. Bonar- Enjoy it :Bonar Disfrutalo.

Yes we will. The light is shining and the cake is worth the candle today.