The church bells are ringing in this plaza where I am slumped into a bench. Will this be my last patio ?

It’s like the arrow chase we played in childhood, except here in Cordoba the streets are narrow and twist in on themselves, deceptive in their sequence , wily in their naming. I found the Palacio de Viana, richly furnished 17C palace with numerous patios and gardens .









I had a brief peed off spell at the beginning of the visit. Feelings I recognised from earlier travel. For the first time in Cordoba I had to pay E8 for entry to palace and patios. I’ve got used to the minuscule entry charges. Then I was annoyed by the group of women who stood at the entrance and interrogated the guide about what was included in the fee and whether they could pay for 3 or 4 or whatever. The dialogue went on and on while others stood happily chatting away ; common in Spain, people just talk, everywhere and in all circumstances. The whole noisy group talked and talked, while others stood by happily.
Then I couldn’t lose them, every room I went into they were there already or followed me in. Still talking loudly to each other. Spaniards were no longer endearing.
But it was just a hitch. I had been walking around for hours and speaking Spanish all day. I wondered briefly why I’d been so adamant about my Espana Sola travel.
Then I left the Viana, got out my Patios map and started the patio hunt again. Just as I was about to give up in exasperation I hit on the right street and also a group of laughing women who chatted away to me and were also searching. We found 5 patios, all small and belonging to private homes . The owners have opened up their patios to us for the 2 weeks of the festival . Actually I liked them more than the grander ones.




Still, I’m going back to my patch and having a drink . No more patios or churches or palaces today.
I put away my map and phone and just walk.
I did it. Followed my nose and I’m in a cheerful Cuban bar having a drink three minutes away from my room at La Esparteria .
I’ll leave the mojito for another time though .

