I’ve just found a loo in the crowds around the Mesquita and I have to laugh. There are 4 other people sitting with their cafe con leche, queued to use the loo. One lovely guy, English, acting as the loo guide ( the note on the door of this not very Spanish looking cafe states firmly no coffee no loo). He is telling people gently when it’s their turn, and warning them to take some tissues from the nearby table. There is is no toilet paper.

Lots of tissue boxes lined up . I didn’t see them until the guy told me.

I’m on my way to the Jewish quarter as the Mezquita is very busy, best I come earlier tomorrow.

I delayed myself this morning . Or rather, the early morning brought with it a series of disturbances : where is my room key ? Did I drop it in the shower? Where is the small shampoo? Where have my only other pair of undies gone? Not important items perhaps but disappearances usually trigger a low level fear, doubt creeps in.

Then I start out and enjoy just walking through winding streets towards the Mesquita .I check out some buildings and gardens on the way, until , inevitably, I need the loo. And there are no uncrowded, reasonably priced cafes in sight .

So I’ve found Pepitas, a coffee, and the loo.

Now for the Jewish Quarter.

I’m having a wonderful time wandering . I get to the Jewish synague but don’t join the long queue waiting to go in . Tomorrow early .

The Casa de Sefarad, a Museum and house of memories is dedicated to the memory of those Jews who lived in Cordoba and were persecuted and forced to leave. A 14C Jewish house in Calle Judias with very moving and clear displays in the rooms around a central patio, it was established in 2004 as a centre of Sefardic culture, history and tradition.. The historic records run alongside an account of the destruction of books from Roman times, onwards and the persecution and execution of thinkers and writers in all cultures. The highlight for me was the series of Sefardic chants delivered solo and unaccompanied in perfect harmony.

Maimonides, leading figure in Medieval Jewish thought.The huge library he established was destroyed by the Inquisition
Biblioclasm , Final stage defined by Umberto Ecco is the burning of books .
William Tyndale who made the first translation of the Rnglish bible from the Latin and Greek In 1536 all but 2 copies were burnt . And later Tyndale was burned too.

I also just walked into several patios . This week in Cordoba is the Fiesta de Los Patios. But more on patios in a different post. There’s so much here to take in . Mostly I’m just blown away at the richness and harmony of the Sefardic culture , the way they managed to hold onto that culture through centuries of persecution, despite the huge fear that must have played out constantly in their lives.

I’m a bit embarrassed now about the account of minor mishaps and silly fears recounted in the opening of this blog.

I’m so mindful of the fact that the Jewish community lived in Cordoba harmoniously under the Arab Caliphate for 2 Centuties.The Golden Age of Sefardic culture in Spain.

This history of the Jewish preserved identity is a highly emotional storytelling that connects all our destinations.

That’s why , despite the crowds, I’m going back inside the walls of this thronging, absolutely glowing Jewish quarter.