Alegria. think this is the Spanish term for lively, living life, joy. Well that’s me this morning after my double dose of cafe and the fatty, sugary churros, I’ve recovered my desire for the chase,

I make it all the way to my first stop, the Plaza de Los Naranjos of the Mesquita, without turning on my phone or pouring over my crumpled map. Lots of people, but not as many as there will be in a couple of hours, and, Oh ….. just sit in the plaza and look again at the stonework and imagine robed figures walking quietly over this ground, under these orange trees all those years ago.

I found most of the Christian additions quite bulky and ugly compared to the Muslim work ( King Boabil surrendered Granada in1492 and by 1614 all the Muslims who had converted to Christianity were expelled.Then, roll on on the Reconquiste.

But I deviate. I’m off to see the evidence of another group of people who lived harmoniously with Muslims and Christians in Spain for a few hundred years, until they too were expelled .

I remember how to get to the Jewish Synagogue, and I head down the squashy street, even stop to look in at a silver jewellery shop or two, and finger the linen pants hanging along the wall. Yes I know this is all touristy, but I don’t care.

My luck is holding . There are only a few people in the Synagogue, unlike a few days ago when the queue wound round the corner. It’s very peaceful in this small space.

Back into the hustle and bustle of Calle Almanzar running alongside the old city wall ; it seems that everyone loves sitting here, yelling at lunch companions in a frenzy of eating and drinking .

I squeeze my way through and in a few minutes there is quiet. I see a small cafe on my right with only one person standing at the counter eating what looks like a very delicious bocadilla. Success. A gaseosa, a bocadilla of cheese, egg and salad and delicious sauces. All for for E5. Plus I have a long conversation with the jefa, who says I can have one of the exchange books on the shelf.

Very full, I walk further on and come to …. I’m beginning to tire now,and make rash moves into unknown territory until … I’m back where I was 2 days sgo and needed to go to the loo.

I sit on a park bench and finish my drink .

Then I make for the Alcazar. That’s a story for tomorrow.

(A few notes on Mesquita: dates from 784 -786 when a Umayyad ruler built over a Visigoth Basilica.Extensions in 9th and 20th century, However Muslims and Christians worshipped here, until 1236 when the Mesquita became a Christian Cathedral. The Moorish character altered a lot in 16th C with the huge, ornate high altar plunged into the centre, mumerous chapels constructed around the perimeter of the beautiful open space …… , and a huge choir )