Well here I am ,first night in Toledo, eating again. Or finally, I should write as I’ve been travelling most of the day. Between watching the train departures board, getting into the right carriage, changing trains , working out where to charge my phone, following map directions, I’ve been occupied .

But I did have some interesting conversations . First with the owner of .La Esparteria where I’ve been staying for the week. I loved the place with it’s top floor bay window from where I could watch people passing by, and the rooftop patio. I also loved Córdoba. We talked about her rooms , the unrealistic expectations of guests, and how far away Australia is and parted with hugs and vows of my return next year with my “marido”. Then I conversed with two younger Venezuelan women on platform 2 at Cordoba, while we were waiting for the train . They were going to Madrid. As only women can , our brief but in depth conversation ranged from the dangers in South American states , except Venezuela, to domestic life universally. All in Spanish !

So my linguistic skills are improving; one of the objectives of this trip. I just need to remember to relax and not try and translate each word.

So to Toledo

Well the train station is amazing , From that position of vantage it seems like a Lego city has been dropped onto the landscape. Looking back, behind the station , it’s just flat farmland. Walk away from the station towards the Alcantara Bridge and there’s another section : stuck on hilltops .

My heart leaps. I’m going to have to climb some of these hills in a couple of days . Then it’s up and up the winding paths and through the reconstructed archway with the ominous sounding name, Arc de Sangre .

So , first impressions? A severe city. There’s a a seriousness about it which probably reflects the heavy, sombre hand of 17 C Christianity ? The lines of the buildings are straight as are is the street flow. Maybe I’m seeing this because I’ve come from Cordoba with it’s curves and colour and shabbiness . Also the noise and constant sound of music in the background. Cordoba to me is a city of blurred edges and multilayered history ; Christianity seems to have worked with that past rather than accomplishing a complete makeover . Or maybe the Roman/ early Christian/Arab presence has pushed on through, too deeply etched in peoples’ cultures to be extinguished: the Arab presence particularly with the white buildings, patios,, gardens and fountains, tiles and fine mosaic work . The vivid blue moves through the mix of old and new , binding all with a glorious light .

So I’ll see tomorrow. I really want to see the El Greco . Before I have to struggle up those hills of the Camino Levante