Of Keys and Posting, Finding Beds, Speaking Spanish…..and Other Things

On the way to Colmenar looking forward to my room and shower

In UK it’s showers that turn on in strange ways, or don’t turn on. Or you’re not allowed to use the shower because there’s no hot water. In Spain the showers are fine. It’s keys. At least when on a Camino, for this peregrina, making a way, it’s keys.

First its finding the person who holds the keys in the small village. We are usually hot and tired and just ready to fall into a bed of any kind. The “donde es las llaves?” question is at the tip of my tongue by now. But the heat, the anxiety and the expectations mean that it is a while before I understand and the other person understands what we need. I think I am speaking understandable Spanish, they often do not understand at first.

Often the place where the person who has the keys lives or works is closed for the afternoon. Then it’s locating the place where the keys belong, following directions to the albergue, usually up a hill we have just walked down. Once we find the place we insert the key into a lock and jiggle it until the door opens.

However, just tonight in a small town Colmenar, 40 km out of Madrid, the key issue hit us again. We found the accomodation with not too much trouble thanks to google maps. We settled into our room, received our 3 keys.

After a shower and a rest we went out and locked it as instructed with key no 1, through the self locking entrance to the second floor (key no 2 to get in again) down the stairs to the final door with key no 3. Learning from past mishaps I remained inside while Doug tried the key in the lock. Nothing. Again. Nothing. He tried repeatedly until a man who lives on the second floor came along, inserted his key, jiggled it around, and the door opened . We tried But still we could not get it right.

the key will not open the lock

We phoned the owner. Her message said she was not answering till later as at a celebration. So Doug stayed inside while I went out to search for food and drink. After a series of messages back and forth on WhatsAp in Spanish, she arrived, gave us a lesson on key jiggling which we still could not manage. Finally she told us to press 2A bell when we wanted to come in and the door would open. By now we had been key studying for at least three hours on and off. This is Colmenar.

I later went to Mass at the Gothic Church on the hill. I held my breath as the priest went to open the tabernacle (where the host for communion is kept locked away) but he unlocked it on the second go.

Keys are a constant negotiation but I am getting better at finding and using them and less panicky. Posting stuff from a too heavy back pack is another matter. It’s also fraught with unforeseen problems.

Despite walking several caminos we always have too much which involves a trip to the post office to post surplus weight to a relative in the UK.

So the trip to the post office, the correo, throws up unexpected complications. We find the correo easily, take a number and wait. Just behind us were of different sized boxes so we fit 3. 8 kilos of stuff into the middle sized one, and stand in the queue. The Senora at the desk waves her arms and I realised that we had done something incorrectly. The lady next in line said we had used the wrong box and needed the external posting box. The Senora gets another box and we took everything out of the first box and placed it in the second.

Waiting to post our box of stuff (wrong box1)

That was just the beginning. Since Brexit UK post now requires customs forms and there were questions about contents and values. plus the hardest thing of all: the post code which initially I had wrong, and later the Senora read wrongly. The Lincoln address and the postcode elicited a lot of questions. An hour later we were finished. Hopefully the parcel arrives at its destination

However the Senora was polite and helpful at all times. So I get to “the other things”. The people are the wonderful things about Spain and walking. Thank you Senora Correo. Also the Senora in the Farmacia in Penabla, a small town two nights before Salamanca. She explained where the Camino exited the town and called the bar to ask the owner to open up for us that night (there was no shop there or other source of food). She listened patiently to find some remedies for my feet and an ankle strap.

In Fontiveros we were invited to join a poetry launch, tour of the historical city and invited to lunch (See Sambasue21.Blog at http://www.wordpress.com). In the next village one of the men who was a part of the celebration joined us outside the bar and talked to us about his family, Spain, political events. I recognise how hard it was to grasp our inadequate Spanish, and to converse with us. Also the bar man at the Bolero bar in Salamanca, who listened to us waffle on, and shared his love of music with us, taught me how to pronounce some words with the rolling of the lips. Finally thanks to the young guy at Salamanca station who told us we can get the Dorado (gold )card and spent time organising refunds and issuing the card. Gracias all of you.

It’s the ‘other things”that make a difference.

Gracias the Bolero for your great music and talk
Our tarjetas Dorado

Memory Plays Tricks: Second day on Camino Madrid

I cannot recognise many of the markers on this road I walked with my daughter 4 years ago. We got off the train at Colmenar and after enquiring in very bad Spanish “Donde es ?” the flèchas or arrows that direct along the path, we walked up a very steep hill and somehow reached the right place. The first flecha was on the wall next to the church of the Annunciation. My memory of that cold, unsettled morning is of a smaller church and the plaza full of workmen digging. We clicked sticks and off we went on our mother/daughter adventure.

It was icy cold along rocky treeless plain, that’s my memory of it. We sheltered behind rocks whenever we could from the wind which whipped around our head. Our faces were too frozen to move our lips and talk. Every now and then soggy cold bits of water fell on us, enough to run off the surface of jackets and into the tops of our muddy boots.

Today it’s very hot. We started at 9am, too late really, but even and hour into the walk I feel the sun coming off the gravelly path and hitting my face. The road stretches on relentlessly and I watch my feet over the rocks and gullies. I also watch for bikes. It is Sunday and people are off on their mountain bikes for the day to the next place Manzanares el Real. Bikes come hurtling zigzagging across rocks and dirt and I have to move out of the way on this narrow path. I recognise the rock behind behind which we sheltered from the wind four years ago, and we laughed against the cold wind as we spied the flecha on the rock. We were on the right path. Today after that recognition, most of the way was unfamiliar.

How could I have forgotten the markers on the path? Maybe I was so intent on watching where I put my feet and contending with the cold. Or perhaps the path has been re routed. Or maybe memory plays tricks. Perhaps I am attempting to rediscover or reinvent an atmosphere or mood which cannot be recreated: the exhilaration of a start of an adventure and a hope.

Today I am conscious of the sun bearing down and regret my missed coffee. We rushed out of Colmenar, it is Sunday so coffee shops not open that early. The path varies between stoney and flat and stones and uphill. Even 3 weeks ago the countryside would have been pretty. Today the lavender and yellow bushes have passed their best. Maybe I have too because after 10km of walking, and getting out of the way of cyclists as they hurtle past, I long for coffee or coke Xero , and shade.

A rest under a tree and we eat the chocolate wafer brought from Colmenar, water, some stale bread. Off again. A few bits that lighten the walk: the trees against the mountains as we approach Manzanares el Real ( village of real apples!), a single white cloud in a gimlet blue sky. Then it’s a wind downhill beside the lake and a walk into the Centre. First bar, here we are. Coke Zero and beer and all’s nearly right with the world.

All right with the world. Nearly

The end of Camino Teresiano (el Camino de la Vida Interior).

At the end of Teresiano, she is buried here in Alba de Tormes.

This camino has been a time of reflection, as most walks are, but it has been a special walk as we have been following the steps, and the thoughts of an exceptional woman and her life. We ended this first part of our camino today in Alba de Tormes, where St Teresa ended her life in one of the convents she founded.

In the midst of the glaring religiosity, the paintings of saints in various poses of humility, suffering, (transverberacion) there is a strong sense of the woman. From the books she wrote, the convents she founded, the papal bull of her canonisation, the memories of her male confessors, her spirit shines through. I could look at the huge urn and the reconstruction of the room where she died, complete with the folded arms veiled eyes image, and see a remarkable woman who kept faith with friends and her God, and forged ahead with her convictions.

From this Convento Anunciacion we walked through this pretty town with it’s Mudejar architecture and winding streets to the top of the town and the Tower of the Duke of Alba. St Teresa was a close friend of his wife and he was her patron, donating money to found some of her convents.

The remains of the Tower of the Duke of Alba overlooking the town with its churches and convents ,and imprints of Santa Teresa

So what am I taking away from this walk, besides my admiration for this saint and a better grasp of the times in which she lived?

Silence. As we were walking on these very solitary paths the only sound was often the rustle of the long grass on either side. In the early mornings as we started off full of energy the sound of bird call and insects chirping blended with the rhythm of our footsteps. In such a silence there is peace and the space to contemplate.

A realisation that the life I have is right here in front of me, not in some other place : A lot of my life has been about searching but some of what I want is right in front of my nose. I have family to love and who love me and a home.

I no longer need to feel that I am opting out by not training hard for triathlons, running hard, flinging myself into dance. making friends and being fun. I can do or be who i want to be, I’m ok warts and all.

I accept who I am, while striving for the things I want to achieve. However there is a realisation that I can work with what I’ve got.

The recognition once more that endurance is the key to living life to its fullest. As I placed one foot in front of the other, or flinched as my hips just didn’t stretch as they used to, I did think about St Teresa and others who have walked this path so long ago in much harsher conditions.

In the villages we have passed through there are so many testimonials to people who have lived , worked , created . Especially in Alba de Tormes , looking at the pieces of lives from 500 years ago : the home,the churches, the history of the people, I was reminded of the nature of life .

.It’s a bit of a cliche “the camino throws up things that you need to look at or get through”. This camino more than any before has thrown up thoughts of aging, mortality, life direction, regrets. So along with the aches and pains I am learning to be accepting. Hard one that.

St Teresa prayed to bear witness to joy (of God), to advance “el camino de la vida interior’. If you take away the literal connotation of God, being joyful, grateful for this life and being alive is what I am taking away from this Camino Teresiano.

Life, an intricate pattern of pieces that fit and have colour and texture, and last (from the tower of Alba, recovered floor tiles )

A Hard Days Walk from Gotarrendura to Fontiveros 24 km

Written in Salamanca.Day 7 of Camino Teresiano .

“I am running behind in my blog writing .This account is of Day2 of walking the Camino Teresiano 24 km. Looking back we were silly to walk a so far,so late in the day ,and carrying too much .But ,as they say ,the Camino throws up lessons.During the second half of that walk maybe St Teresa was with me in the silence ,and in the slogging on, one foot in front of the other, I thought of those who suffer so much more and have no place to go at the end of day and are alone.My pain was so little.My life is so wonderful .”

I should have known : my day started off poorly as I hunted for my notebook for half an hour, delaying our start on what turned out to be a very hot day and flat treeless terrain.

The first couple of hours were happy and easy . We passed through a couple of pretty villages,along a Roman road and through farmland with wheat swaying in the breeze,sound of bird call and even the cuckoo, some poppies and blue cornflowers along the paths . Gradually it got hotter and our packs got heavier. The road became flatter and stretched mirage – like toward a moving horizon. Our last stop was in Narros de Salduena at the Plaza where we refilled our bottles from a fountain and lay on the ground with legs up on a bench.A pretty ,silent plaza ,but who cares ? Just focussing on the heat and sore hips . And still 12km to go .

Well we made it to Fontiveros and flopped onto the grass in front of what appeared to be a Sports Center.I phoned the woman who runs the Casa Rural and she arrived immediately and lead us over the road to the Casa Rural la Fonte.

Bliss . Cool rooms, bedroom and bathroom attached, kitchen and patio. All for 20 E each . We’re staying 2 nights ! We are here in Fontiveros

First storks

The Wonder of the Unexpected.On Camino Teresiano: Poetry, History and Lunch with a Poet

Is it serendipity, karma, gift for the soul, a consequence or just plain fortune? But today in Fontiveros, a small town on the way to Alba de Tormes and the end of this Camino, we were privileged to be part of a celebration .

The town is awarding its poetry prize to Gonzalo Sanchez-Teran. He is the winner of the third biennial St Juan de la Cruz poetry contest. Today there was a poetry launch followed by a tour of the many ancient buildings and then lunch. This evening there is a concert, a presentation of the prize and Sanchez-Teran will read some of his poetry. This is the town where St Juan de la Cruz. was born, established a church and wrote. He is a well loved saint of this town and also beloved of poets I am told by our hosts at the lunch: “Fontiveros. Villa de la Poesia”

After the opening discussion/panel of Sanchez-Terran’s Collection we followed a guide on the historical route. I wished I had worked harder at my Spanish as she explained the historical background, stages of renovation, of several beautiful sites: the Carmelite Convent, the birthplace of St Juan de La Cruz, now a church, the Augustine Convent, monuments, palaces and chapels.Finally we entered the huge church, dating from the fifteenth century with an amazing wooden ceiling now fully restored .

Then we were invited to lunch at the bar named after Juan’s father. Served a traditional Fontiveros meal I was told: Soup a la St Juan (a chicken noodle broth), followed by chunky meat and chic peas. I ate the chic peas. The sweets were the best but wisely I only ate half as very very rich. I needed my brain to be working so regretfully had only a couple of glasses of the good tasting red wine. I took my poetry collection to the poet to sign.

My signed copy of Y Corri Cual si El Mal Tuviera Lindes

And so to bed: siesta time. Then we returned to the Council Building “ Espacio Llama de Amor Viva“ the sign reads. To love life, roughly translated. The poet was presented with his prize,and read some of his work fluently and movingly.

We’re off tomorrow to Narro de Castillo, with great memories of this town of poetry and St. Juan de la Cruz. Plus a resolve to work at my Spanish and read more poetry in Spanish. I am also curious to find out more about St Juan.