So we’ve reached the town with the beautiful name: La Magdalena. Lots of Magdalenas and Marias and Nuestra Senoras (Churches, sanctuaries, caves) dedicated to the mother of Jesus on this Olvidado.
And this sanctuary way back up a steep hill from Almuhey is one of the most beautiful. Santuario Nuestra Senora De La Velilla overlooking the valley
I wonder about the people who walked here so long ago, who lived and worked in these villages, and also, of course, those who are passing through now. Including us. How will we be remembered? Who will remember us? Who do we remember?
Beautiful old house on Main Street La Magdalena.Closed up and empty but still holding together. A well loved house it seems
Church at top of hill. Look at the stonework on floor. Such craftsmanship
There’s a linking of the past and present, the known and the unknown on these caminos. A Re- membering, the term used by the Australian therapist, Michael White. Re -membering, the core of White’s Narrative therapy, is a special kind of recollection which gathers together the people who belong or belonged to one’s life: their stories, their influences are reorganised to strengthen a view of oneself (White describes the”thickening “of “ preferred identity”).
There’s a lot of “ones”there, a lot of self. But walking for a longish time, each day, is about self. Me Me Me. Or I wouldn’t be writing this.
But this is not entirely a remembering. It’s also an imagining and inventing. Because I often don’t know who once lived in the houses and buildings I pass. I only catch a glimpse of the present inhabitants as I walk anyway. But it’s fascinating to interpret their stories from my present identity, sometimes merging them with my own.
Church door beautifully crafted Looking through crack on gate of what was once a large monastery Art on the way upstairs to hostal room I loved the colours here Modern Albergue Entering a town on the way . Mix of old and new Wood coloured ochre. Nearing Nocedo They’re gone From monesterio Vegarienza . Now an Albergue. This tableaux faced my bed Long gone A close look at workmanship of this wall as we came close to Villajusta on the way to Riello
So life is re examined; memories emerge from the mass of stored information we carry with us in our heads. Images flash before us, some stay awhile, others are pushed aside again and covered over.But many, phoenix-like, burst momentarily , vividly, into life.
And for what purpose ? I’m not clear about that. Only for myself, me again, there’s a renewal of sorts, a celebratory tinge to life as lived, and a re purposing . Maybe its the sense of all those people not so very different to me – they made shelter and food, worked, formed friendships, loved and created. Maybe, just maybe, something of their lives lingers here on this Forgotten Path. They are remembered .
Remember them too. Now, A noisy bar in La Magdalena. Fun
A pause after the mountain path up to the mountain path past Bonar in Northern Spain. The alternative route to La Robla, the next small town on this Camino Olvidado.
I mean PAUSE as in stay here in Bonar another night. Yesterday was a wonderful day on a Camino with which I have sometimes struggled these past two weeks.
Today was hard too but I did it! Got to the summit of one of the mountains and down again. Upwards via a steep 2 hour climb over loose stones,gravel, a drop over a river (I didn’t look down as my balance is not that good) and narrow slippery sections of path.
Reach the top and vistas stretch out all around this gasping body: purple mountain tops mingle with their shorter more muted brothers or sisters. The white craggy rock frontages are etched deeply by weather and streaked spasmodically with a pale yellow chalky pattern. From one vantage point I can see a minuscule village huddled in the valley. Further around there are several winding paths leading away to other mountain tops.
It is autumn here but so much water and all is green, remnants of yellow flowering bushes and scraggly mulberries hanging in with splashes of colour. The tiny purple daisy flowers that have cheered me on hot days just squeezing their petals through the ground are numerous here where the earth is soft.
. …….a harder, very taxing slide/creep/stumble ascent back down to the world left behind for a while.
From exaltation
On my bum is safest coming back down
To downslide.
Was the cake worth the candle ?
I’m still considering.
Last night I thought about backtracking. Train or bus to those towns we’ve enjoyed but passed through in the blink of an eye. The peregrina life is up with the alarm, packed the night before, coffee if we’re lucky, and hit the road. Cover the kilometres as best one can while hoping for a coffee stop or just a cold water during the day and the arrival at destination. Then find your hostal ( on this route not many). Then it’s the ritual of feet up, shower, washing clothes in sink, tend to feet, a short siesta and out to find food and a drink. Depending on the time, day or town this can be simple, or require a little exploring.
But I’m not complaining, just explaining. This morning the idea of staying here another day and just exploring the town seems as attractive as continuing. But why does the idea seem strange?
Simple really. It’s just that I’ve been stuck in the Camino mould for the last 10 years or so, since I walked that first Camino, the Frances. I’ve gone on walking in Spain because I love exploring this country by walking. I love Spain, it’s people and culture and it’s language. Caminos are a wonderful window into this life.
I have clung on to the idea that the real peregrina walks each step with her pack, learning about herself and life as she goes. A serious business. I guess a little bit of the belief that suffering is good for the soul. A peregrina I met up with again today reminded me that God has a sense of humour. My Camino doesn’t have to be an endurance race and I don’t have to push myself up each mountain, There are vistas down here which I haven’t looked at, really looked at. There are sweeping vistas at ground level and smaller, less obvious views. I haven’t always looked at the light which touches “causas”/ things as I pass with my eyes directly ahead or watching my feet.
So today is about light, noticing light snd recognising that light which exists everywhere.
Light streaming through this very ordinary window of our hostsl room
Spirits lifted we unpacked, strolled out to a late coffee and replanned our Camino. Actually this town of Bonar looks different this crisp clear morning and well worth enjoying. So we walked out along the river and part of the way to the next village , without our packs. I walked along curious, and gently placing one taped up foot in front of the other.
Along the river the light sparkles on the water
.
Up a slight rise at the end of the path, but I’m not following the yellow ‘flechas’ today and I’m staying on my feet. We turn back to the bridge and return to Bonar
Bonar Disfrutalo
So. Bonar- Enjoy it :Bonar Disfrutalo.
Yes we will. The light is shining and the cake is worth the candle today.
After a glorious day’s walking in the mountains of the Olvidado near Cistierna, and entering a town which seemed welcoming and navigable, the smooth Rioja just slid down my throat.
We walked from Puente Almuhey to Cistierna, about 20 km mostly over steep mountain paths. Paused at the sanctuary of Our Lady of Velilla .Watching the sun rays streaming through the clouds to touch the multicoloured mountain tops and curves, I can believe that this is a place of miracles.
Sanctuario Ntr.Sra.de La Velilla
Mary appeared here, the story goes, to Don Diego de Pedro in 1470. He built an ermita , a hermitage. The present monastery dates from the late 1600s. It continues to be a place of pilgrimage.
Then we hit the track again, uphill. And as we walked the views just absorbed my whole being. Miracles could happen here in this silence and early light. There were just views and views and more views as each time it seemed we’d reached a summit there was another climb and another perfect frame.
These photos just don’t do justice to the colours and shapes
We stopped for a drink of water and the remains of some cake from yesterday’s breakfast and I wished I could paint or sketch the landscape.
Have to take a selfie
Then it was down. Ah, we’re on that ridge and will walk along a level path. But no. The path suddenly changed direction and we almost miss a flecha. Then the surface becomes a dicey mix of loose gravel and slippery mud, and goes down steeply so I have to watch my footing. And so it goes, up and down with unexpected twists and turns. Surely that group of houses way below is Cistierna, our endpoint today?. No, another turn, away from the expected direction. The views are diminishing now as we enter a forest which obscures the shortening mountains. Then a long, sharp descent and I catch my foot just in time. There is Cistierna below. A mix of photos now as I was too breathless to take more.
Straight to a bar
And then a FaceTime call to Matilda, my granddaughter. Happy Birthday lovely girl. Find a room, shower, head back to the street and food: a good Rioja here we are.
So the morning after is hard. Up late, can’t find my toothpaste or dry socks, stiff as a board but too late for stretches. A bit off kilter.
A bit of a muddle this morning
But, it was worth it. Just to sit and watch and feel “Hey I’m here in Spain” Tomorrow is tomorrow.
Late morning for us. Usually we’ve walked for 2 hours by now. But this morning we’re training. Busogrinos yesterday, trainegrinos today.
A new day and hopeful once again.
THANKS
Thanks for a good night’s sleep in a comfortable bed
Thanks for not being out in that storm over the mountain
Thanks for the options we have.
I could go on, but you get the idea. Yesterday we were organising to jump the Olvidado path and head back to Bilbao.Various reasons, but in a nutshell the joy of moving and exploring, the connection to people and landscape comes in tiny splinters of light. We’re isolated metaphorically. The distances are long; long patches of dry, flat earth interspersed with intervals of climbs and impressive mountain views . Only problem, often too anxious and weary to absorb them, and too busy chasing the yellow flechas that point the way or following a wikiloc. The organisation: how far can we walk, is there anything between for food or rest, where can we stay tonight? When we finally reach a place it is sometimes away from the heart of the town with limited connection with the people or life here.
Leaving Aguilar yesterday . Still quite pretty
…. Some of this has been a part of every Camino we’ve walked. But here what we see and experience is, at times, only partially balanced by the organisation and the slog.
So this is about looking back on yesterday
Yes , started off well leaving Aguilar and walking through attractive landscape , Here’s the rainbow promising a bright day.
Past a couple of farm houses next to the fields. Silent as it’s getting hot. A necropolis on a hill top and a few crumbling churches. No coffee/bars.
First break an Irish peregrina walks towards us and the next 10 km pass quickly as we talk and walk. Reach a bar at the river
See. We’re happy here lovely spot
Walking with Elaine And another walking pic
Elaine is walking the next 20 km. We say goodbye and head to the bus stop
We’ve done 20 and that’s enough.
Waiting at Alsa stop hopefully
The next half hour, it would have been three hours walking, we are busegrinos.
And the world goes swirling by from the comfort of our Alsa bus. Look at the climbing we’ve missed.
Arrival at destination and another round of finding somewhere to stay. Of course right across the opposite end of this town of Guardo. We have to settle for the Hotel who answered the phone. It’s on the edges of this sprawling town.
Train to Bilbao tomorrow maybe ? Right now we’re in two minds.
Then 2 hours later we walk the 2 km back to the centre and after couple of wines in a fairly busy bar next to the plaza, we’re going to give the Olvidado another shot.
Life is improving
So this morning we’re resuming the Camino Olvidado:part train today and all walk tomorrow.
Waiting for our train to Almuhey
A mix of bus/train/feet, for us peregrinos now, mixed journeying to break each stage into a manageable proportion. The mountains ahead we are told are the most memorable part of the Olvidado.
Sambasue21 