Alegria. think this is the Spanish term for lively, living life, joy. Well that’s me this morning after my double dose of cafe and the fatty, sugary churros, I’ve recovered my desire for the chase,
I make it all the way to my first stop, the Plaza de Los Naranjos of the Mesquita, without turning on my phone or pouring over my crumpled map. Lots of people, but not as many as there will be in a couple of hours, and, Oh ….. just sit in the plaza and look again at the stonework and imagine robed figures walking quietly over this ground, under these orange trees all those years ago.
I found most of the Christian additions quite bulky and ugly compared to the Muslim work ( King Boabil surrendered Granada in1492 and by 1614 all the Muslims who had converted to Christianity were expelled.Then, roll on on the Reconquiste.
But I deviate. I’m off to see the evidence of another group of people who lived harmoniously with Muslims and Christians in Spain for a few hundred years, until they too were expelled .
I remember how to get to the Jewish Synagogue, and I head down the squashy street, even stop to look in at a silver jewellery shop or two, and finger the linen pants hanging along the wall. Yes I know this is all touristy, but I don’t care.
My luck is holding . There are only a few people in the Synagogue, unlike a few days ago when the queue wound round the corner. It’s very peaceful in this small space.
One of the archways with the original stonework and inscriptions exposed Translations of the inscriptions, “ Serve the Lord with gladness. Come before his presence with singing”… and more Can you see this centuries old inscription ? Closeup of freezes I’m fascinated by the different mix of stones and colours and surfaces as layers were removed
Back into the hustle and bustle of Calle Almanzar running alongside the old city wall ; it seems that everyone loves sitting here, yelling at lunch companions in a frenzy of eating and drinking .
Lunch time in La Juderia
I squeeze my way through and in a few minutes there is quiet. I see a small cafe on my right with only one person standing at the counter eating what looks like a very delicious bocadilla. Success. A gaseosa, a bocadilla of cheese, egg and salad and delicious sauces. All for for E5. Plus I have a long conversation with the jefa, who says I can have one of the exchange books on the shelf.
Very full, I walk further on and come to …. I’m beginning to tire now,and make rash moves into unknown territory until … I’m back where I was 2 days sgo and needed to go to the loo.
I sit on a park bench and finish my drink .
Then I make for the Alcazar. That’s a story for tomorrow.
And farewell Mesquita , for now
(A few notes on Mesquita: dates from 784 -786 when a Umayyad ruler built over a Visigoth Basilica.Extensions in 9th and 20th century, However Muslims and Christians worshipped here, until 1236 when the Mesquita became a Christian Cathedral. The Moorish character altered a lot in 16th C with the huge, ornate high altar plunged into the centre, mumerous chapels constructed around the perimeter of the beautiful open space …… , and a huge choir )
I’m back where I started my not very marvellous yesterday. But then not every day can be wonderful, wherever. In my favourite coffee and churros spot in La Corredera, I contemplate the day ahead . San Basilio and Juderia; I know the way there without my phone or map gripped tightly in my hand .
But first, yesterday. I stopped at the market just opposite and bought some really yummy strawberries. Then I started what turned out to be a long, hot, uneventful slog to the University. It turns out that there are several buildings all over the place, but after a wild goose chase I found the main one. Told it is a wonderful modern building . But I was disappointed as it seemed as if the neo Mudejar style superimposed on the 1921- 1926 building was just stuck on to solid lines Even the area on the edges of the old city is pretty ordinary. But the University has 21 campuses throughout the city and many of them are world heritage from 1600s , so I simply viewed the newest building.
First glimpse of the Rectorado of Cordoba University
I went around to the front of the building but couldn’t go in further than the foyer .
Close up of the outside architecture
So I made my way back to my neighbourhood. Actually it was a short way and I was annoyed with myself for the self imposed long walk.
A detour into Zara’s. I love looking at clothes shops in foreign places, and I found Aldi again ( pleasure of the familiar!). With a large salad for E3 and a few other items I repaired to my room in La Esparteria and the detective story that’s just concluding. In a better frame of mind.
I hesitated about blogging this. Partly because I don’t want to exaggerate my story of being nearly two days in a small Pueblo with 300 others in the school gym. It sounds like the Apocalypse .
Also I am still processing the experience. Emotions changed as the situation evolved. From an initial “ oh well this train is just stopped for a while” to , an hour later “ it’s still stopped and it’s getting warm “ to 3 hours later listening to threads of conversation, passengers all unsure :”it’s a cyberattack , maybe terrorists, power off all over Europe “… And the muttered responses from train staff . The eternal Spanish phrase when no one wants to commit or to tell : “ No se”, Don’t know, a shrug.
I did think, well refugees must feel like this: not understanding the language or what is happening, where they are, what might happen . All anchoring points abruptly cease to exist.
I got that there was no power and no communication and the train staff could not contact anyone. Finally we were told to leave our luggage in the static train and some buses would be coming. We exited the train and filed through the deserted countryside to waiting buses and a “safe house”. I took my backpack with me , thankful that I was not pulling large wheelie suitcases over the rough ground as some were.
Half an hour later we were deposited in a large room , I think a school gym, in the tiny village ( 83 inhabitants) of Tocon.
This is the beginning , still more people to come . But my last photo as no more charge .
Guardia Civil and Emergency services arrive. We’re handed out bottles of water and there are boxes of bananas and salami sandwiches . Apparently we’re not the only train that is stopped and all Spain is shut down, chaos in cities, airports, so I glean from the guy in charge of our rescue operation . They are now in radio contact and a generator is brought in late afternoon.
9.29pm . Still in Tocan, in the school. We’ve been given water and food, brought in by several cars and a truck. Small tables are lifted in, the food is placed there. Several women boil water on small gas stoves to provide tea and coffee. A lot of announcements on a megaphone and we gather round . Looks like we’re here for the night. Its going to be a long one on the chairs brought in and some gym mats and blankets . This is well organised. By now there is a woman interpreting , but I still don’t get it all , Apparently buses are coming tomorrow to take some of us back to Granada and some on to Sevilla.
We’re all trying to charge phones to let family know where we are. Some to cancel flights or bookings. Being so out of contact is the hardest thing for me. I’m so far away, and no one knows where I am.
It’s a bit like a party now. Kids are laid down on mats , and some people manage to get one while others arrange their chairs so legs are resting on another one. Some people are being annoyingly cheerful, others nodding off or looking bored or worried. I’ve been for a few walks around the dead town but scared to go for too long in case things suddenly change. Police say this is a category 3 emergency and we need to stay together , there is chaos in Granada snd Sevilla , that if we leave they cannot guarantee our safety . I think this is to curtail a minor revolt where individuals are negotiating with villagers with cars for lifts to Sevilla.
At Ipm we are entertained by a guitarist and a truly awful singer. Two women dance flamenco to claps and cheers. I’m tired and grumpy; if one more person makes a congratulatory speech to the Policia in charge of operations…..and there are claps and loud cheers each time he takes the mike and yells out the same messsge about staying calm .
Doze off and take a mat someone has abandoned , pull my jumper over my eyes to screen out the light which remains on all night and nod off in fits and starts. It’s like one of those absurdist dramas where nothing happens and the characters are in one room as the same scene, the same dialogue , repeats itself again and again. Wake at 5am bleary eyed and thankful for the coffee being brewed in saucepans . These women, and some men, have been working for 24 hours nonstop and smilingly answering the same questions flung at them.
So the morning goes and we’re told buses are arriving to take us to 2 destinations . Then there is a hiatus and the interpreter announces that people who want to go to Sevilla can form groups and each pay E 20 in cash . There’s a surge of people . Another hour and the Sevilla privately arranged transport arrives . A surge of people and the Policia stops everyone and appeals for calm .Families and old people first .
At last: the bus for Granada and one for Sevilla . We are warned that once in Granada or Sevilla we’re on our own . Renfe takes no responsibility . We queue up again and are escorted to the buses parked in the square. This purgatorial time is over.
And we’re off. After an hours drive we are dropped off at the bus station . Don’t know if trains are running but make my way to the train station , and quickly book on Trainline . 5 hours wait and it’s going to Cordoba. So I start off again from Granada after the unplanned sojourn in Tocan .
I am still reflecting on the fragility of our existence . How quickly can the structures we have built around us disappear. In the twinkling of an eye, the touch of a switch, the eye of a storm … All that really stays is the earth we walk on, and even that can sink into the sea or explode. We have built a world around us to feel safe. But it’s all temporary.
Leaving Quentar 2 days sgo. Confident of the planned onward journey to Cordoba
PS Thanks to one of my favourite Australian songwriters , Mick Thomas for the title ,the subtext of this story. Yes , it did feel odd as well as lonely. Real or imagined I felt completely detached from the group .
The church bells are ringing in this plaza where I am slumped into a bench. Will this be my last patio ?
I think it’s Santa Marina
It’s like the arrow chase we played in childhood, except here in Cordoba the streets are narrow and twist in on themselves, deceptive in their sequence , wily in their naming. I found the Palacio de Viana, richly furnished 17C palace with numerous patios and gardens .
2 potted geranium walls Reflections I liked the two different colours of bougainvillea Reflections . I’d like to have this pond The beautiful and the broken Courtyard outside private chapel . Quiet and shady I had to take this: a grotesque mask on a table just outside the chapel . What does it mean ?
I had a brief peed off spell at the beginning of the visit. Feelings I recognised from earlier travel. For the first time in Cordoba I had to pay E8 for entry to palace and patios. I’ve got used to the minuscule entry charges. Then I was annoyed by the group of women who stood at the entrance and interrogated the guide about what was included in the fee and whether they could pay for 3 or 4 or whatever. The dialogue went on and on while others stood happily chatting away ; common in Spain, people just talk, everywhere and in all circumstances. The whole noisy group talked and talked, while others stood by happily.
Then I couldn’t lose them, every room I went into they were there already or followed me in. Still talking loudly to each other. Spaniards were no longer endearing.
But it was just a hitch. I had been walking around for hours and speaking Spanish all day. I wondered briefly why I’d been so adamant about my Espana Sola travel.
Then I left the Viana, got out my Patios map and started the patio hunt again. Just as I was about to give up in exasperation I hit on the right street and also a group of laughing women who chatted away to me and were also searching. We found 5 patios, all small and belonging to private homes . The owners have opened up their patios to us for the 2 weeks of the festival . Actually I liked them more than the grander ones.
Still, I’m going back to my patch and having a drink . No more patios or churches or palaces today.
I put away my map and phone and just walk.
I did it. Followed my nose and I’m in a cheerful Cuban bar having a drink three minutes away from my room at La Esparteria .
I’ve just found a loo in the crowds around the Mesquita and I have to laugh. There are 4 other people sitting with their cafe con leche, queued to use the loo. One lovely guy, English, acting as the loo guide ( the note on the door of this not very Spanish looking cafe states firmly no coffee no loo). He is telling people gently when it’s their turn, and warning them to take some tissues from the nearby table. There is is no toilet paper.
Lots of tissue boxes lined up . I didn’t see them until the guy told me.
I’m on my way to the Jewish quarter as the Mezquita is very busy, best I come earlier tomorrow.
I delayed myself this morning . Or rather, the early morning brought with it a series of disturbances : where is my room key ? Did I drop it in the shower? Where is the small shampoo? Where have my only other pair of undies gone? Not important items perhaps but disappearances usually trigger a low level fear, doubt creeps in.
Then I start out and enjoy just walking through winding streets towards the Mesquita .I check out some buildings and gardens on the way, until , inevitably, I need the loo. And there are no uncrowded, reasonably priced cafes in sight .
So I’ve found Pepitas, a coffee, and the loo.
Now for the Jewish Quarter.
I’m having a wonderful time wandering . I get to the Jewish synague but don’t join the long queue waiting to go in . Tomorrow early .
The Casa de Sefarad, a Museum and house of memories is dedicated to the memory of those Jews who lived in Cordoba and were persecuted and forced to leave. A 14C Jewish house in Calle Judias with very moving and clear displays in the rooms around a central patio, it was established in 2004 as a centre of Sefardic culture, history and tradition.. The historic records run alongside an account of the destruction of books from Roman times, onwards and the persecution and execution of thinkers and writers in all cultures. The highlight for me was the series of Sefardic chants delivered solo and unaccompanied in perfect harmony.
Maimonides, leading figure in Medieval Jewish thought.The huge library he established was destroyed by the InquisitionBiblioclasm , Final stage defined by Umberto Ecco is the burning of books .William Tyndale who made the first translation of the Rnglish bible from the Latin and Greek In 1536 all but 2 copies were burnt . And later Tyndale was burned too.
I also just walked into several patios . This week in Cordoba is the Fiesta de Los Patios. But more on patios in a different post. There’s so much here to take in . Mostly I’m just blown away at the richness and harmony of the Sefardic culture , the way they managed to hold onto that culture through centuries of persecution, despite the huge fear that must have played out constantly in their lives.
I’m a bit embarrassed now about the account of minor mishaps and silly fears recounted in the opening of this blog.
I’m so mindful of the fact that the Jewish community lived in Cordoba harmoniously under the Arab Caliphate for 2 Centuties.The Golden Age of Sefardic culture in Spain.
This history of the Jewish preserved identity is a highly emotional storytelling that connects all our destinations.
That’s why , despite the crowds, I’m going back inside the walls of this thronging, absolutely glowing Jewish quarter.